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dc.contributor.advisorBrown, Michael Hunter
dc.contributor.advisorStevenson, Katie
dc.contributor.authorWesterhof Nyman, Perin Joy
dc.coverage.spatialxiii, 304 p.en_US
dc.description.abstractThis thesis examines the use of meaningful and symbolic dress at the late medieval Scottish royal court, arguing that group displays of colour-coded clothing, exemplified by livery and mourning dress, played key political roles both in the day-to-day functioning of the court and royal household and at large-scale ceremonial events. The discussion takes an interdisciplinary approach to a wide body of source types, and considers evidence from the fourteenth to the mid-sixteenth centuries, concluding with the funeral of James V in 1543. Although a number of Scottish historians have considered the political implications of individual sixteenth-century monarchs’ wardrobes, there has been little focused discussion of the dress of the wider household and court before the mid-sixteenth century. This thesis shows that dress was employed throughout the late medieval period and the early sixteenth century as a means of visually defining the structures of the household and parts of the court, the roles of the people within them, and their relationships to each other and to the monarch. It argues that clothing’s ability to express constructed meaning and identity made it a powerful and versatile tool. Examinations of livery and heraldic dress, funereal dress and textile displays, and mourning dress are used to explore the employment of clothing by the Scottish crown, nobility, and household officials. These discussions culminate in three case studies of the finely-tuned displays of liveries and mourning that were organised for the funerals of Scottish monarchs Madeleine de Valois, Margaret Tudor, and James V. By showing that meaningful dress was a core element in the expression of interpersonal and political discourse at all levels of court life, and by making the technical definitions, forms, functions, and associated meanings of late medieval Scottish dress more accessible, this thesis seeks to facilitate the wider integration of dress evidence into Scottish historical research.en_US
dc.publisherUniversity of St Andrews
dc.rightsCreative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International*
dc.subjectDress historyen_US
dc.subjectCourt cultureen_US
dc.subjectRoyal administrationen_US
dc.subjectScottish kingshipen_US
dc.subjectJames IVen_US
dc.subjectJames Ven_US
dc.subjectMargaret Tudoren_US
dc.subjectDavid Lindsay of the Mounten_US
dc.subject.lcshClothing and dress--Scotland--Historyen
dc.subject.lcshScotland--Kings and rulersen
dc.subject.lcshScotland--Court and courtiers--Clothingen
dc.titleLivery and dule : dressing life and death in the late medieval Scottish royal householden_US
dc.type.qualificationnamePhD Doctor of Philosophyen_US
dc.publisher.institutionThe University of St Andrewsen_US
dc.publisher.departmentSt Andrews Institute of Medieval Studies ; Institute of Scottish Historical Researchen_US
dc.rights.embargoreasonThesis restricted in accordance with University regulations. Print and electronic copy restricted until 3rd March 2026en

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    Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
    Except where otherwise noted within the work, this item's license for re-use is described as Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International